MIKKEL JENSEN BY GREG VAUGHAN

MIKKEL JENSEN (SOUL ARTIST)

1.87 M DE ESTATURA

OJOS AZULES    

CABELLO RUBIO OSCURO

FIRMADO POR LAS AGENCIAS

SOUL ARTIST EN NY

SCOOP MODELS EN COPENAGUE

VIEW EN BARCELONA

ESTE HOMBRE DE ORIGEN DANES SOLO TIENE 20 AÑOS DE EDAD

FOTOS DE GREG VAUGHAN

SIMON SPURR SPRING / SUMMER 2012 MENSWEAR

SIMON SPURR SPRING 2012

For Spring, Simon Spurr was thinking, he said, of English estate dressing: togs for fox-hunting and riding. There was a wartime cast to the collection, too: You saw it in the taped patterns that approximated strategy maps, and the suit patterned with «dazzle»—the World War I camouflage that prevents an enemy from discerning whether a ship is coming or going.

Spurr also played with mesh as a layering piece, like several other men’s designers this week, putting open-weave tanks with suits for a new take on the three-piece. Sometimes they took the place of shirts.

The line Spurr walks has always been between approachability and boundary-pushing. Recent seasons have seen him uptick the fashion quotient of his collections, and it was here that the collection made the occasional stumble. 

More successful were several tailored pieces that played up contrast: the raincoat with leather sleeves, the blazer with laminate lapels. They were cool in that old, sure-handed Spurr way. In everything but temperature, that is. This wasn’t exactly Spring lightness—in texture or color—but a tick in the box for Buy Now, Wear Now when the collection hits stores around January.

TOMMY HILFIGER SPRING / SUMMER 2012 MENSWEAR

The catchall name of this collection, Modern Prep, is one you’ve no doubt heard before from Tommy Hilfiger. It’s essentially his raison d’être. But this particular interpretation of it, likely conceived with great input from consulting designer Simon Spurr and stylist Karl Templer, pushed a more pointed fashion agenda than Hilfiger’s ever done. 

Though the collection cycled through various motifs of Americana—from camouflage to varsity jackets and chinos to seersucker and sailor stripes—there was something distinctly European in its stance. You saw it in the savvy slimmed silhouettes, the knit polos, the handheld bags, the avant-garde look of sailor stripes splashed onto pant legs. Maine and Main Street via Milan (and a bit by way of Tokyo).

The irony, as one men’s editor pointed out after the show, is that preppiness served straight-up is what’s being fetishized these days outside the good old U.S. of A. Witness the success of Hilfiger’s own Prep World pop-up, which toured through Europe this summer. There’s a risk that if preppiness gets too sophisticated, something might get lost in translation.

Nevertheless, Hilfiger clearly wants to up his fashion ante, and in that respect, this collection had meat—and certainly gave everyone a little something to chew on.

 

MARLON TEIXEIRA «IN BED»

MARLON TEIXEIRA (WHILHELMINA)

GQ STYLE CHINA S/S 2011

FOTOS DE DUSAN RELJIN