VERSACE SPRING 2014

VERSACE SPRING 2014

JOHN VARVATOS SPRING 2014

JOHN VARVATOS SPRING 2014

John Varvatos has spent several seasons extrapolating the idea of elegance. His customers, he says, want to dress up. «They know how to dress casually,» he said after his show. He’s offering a crash course in long-legged dressiness: a tall, trim take on suiting that’s equal parts classic rocker and Regency fop. (OK, maybe 60-40.)

His jackets are elongated, three-button, and given an extra nip in at the waist by a waistcoat; his pants, narrow or boot-cut—a style now so out of general favor that it looks practically extraterrestrial. It gave you cause to consider that the high-water, ankle-baring pant length that currently enjoys near-universal dominance will, sooner or later, inevitably find its own time at an end. But probably not right now, and probably not at these hands.

In any case, Varvatos’ elegance had a slept-in crumple, its linens creased, its leathers hand-distressed, as if they’d survived weeks on the road. Which is the ultimate Varvatosian fantasy. While working on the collection, he’d been editing John Varvatos: Rock in Fashion, a compendium of rock ‘n’ roll photography, and the influence of elegant, traveling men like Bryan Ferry, David Bowie, and Jimi Hendrix was scrawled here.

The show ended with an updated bandleader’s jacket, the kind Hendrix liked, worn by a man who may be the closest doppelgänger the modeling world currently offers of Jimi himself.

HOMBRE DEL DÍA : ADRIAN CARDOSO …

Minientrada

ADRIAN CARDOSO

 NACIÓ EL 19 DE NOVIEMBRE DE 1991 EN CANCUN, QUINTANA ROO, MÉXICO. DE ASCENDENCIA ESPAÑOLA.

ACTUALMENTE TIENE 20 AÑOS, MIDE 1.89 M SU CABELLO Y OJOS SON COLOR CAFÉ.

LAS AGENCIAS POR LAS QUE SE ENCUENTRA FIRMADO SON ELITE EN LONDRES Y MILÁN, WHILHELMINA EN NEW YORK,  SUCCESS EN PARÍS, SIGHT EN BARCELONA Y JOY MODELS EN SAO PAULO.

A REALIZADO EDITORIALES PARA REVISTAS IMPORTANTES COMO HERCULES, CARBON COPY, VOGUE HOMMES JAPAN, V MAN, L’OFFICEL HOMMES ITALIA, OUT, CITY, DAMAN, VS, ANTIDOTE, DATAILS MAGAZINE, ETC.

Y HA DESFILADO PARA JOHN GALIANO,  ROBERTO CAVALLI, GIVENCHY, MUGLER, BOTTEGA VENETA, TOMMY HILFIGER, LOUIS  VUITTON, CORNELIANI, D&G, DOLCE & GABBANA, ENTRE OTROS.

QUE BELLO EJEMPLAR DE HOMBRE …

CHAD WHITE BY MATTEO FELICI

 CHAD WHITE (LOVE)

BY MATTEO FELICI

Amer­i­can Idol–Chad White of I Love Mod­els Man­age­ment catches up with our new Milano fash­ion edi­tor,Demetrio Baffa Trasci Amal­fi­tani for an impromptu photo ses­sion. Wear­ing noth­ing but his Calvin’s, yes jeans included, the Amer­i­can model was pho­tographed by Mat­teo Felici. When not pos­ing for the cam­era, Chad was singing the Star Span­gled Ban­ner. Remind us to request a video next time. /​ Groom­ing by Sil­via Acquapen­dente. Fash­ion col­lab­o­ra­tion by Amalia Tiano De Vivo. Photo assis­tance by Luisa Civardi.

AMERICAN IDOL

Z ZEGNA SPRING 2012 MENSWEAR

Alessandro Sartori, the man whose name was made for a career in menswear, must have felt the love as his last collection for Z Zegna got a special send-off yesterday. Gildo Zegna embraced him while the audience clapped and cheered.

The designer’s time at Z Zegna produced some of Milan’s oddest, edgiest menswear, and he saw himself out with a collection that did him proud. His vision for the brand was always a touch eccentric. (The affection for tail coats, for instance, revisited one last time in the finale here.)

There was something bold, almost cinematic about the way he exaggerated proportions. The broad-shouldered blouson with the wide-ribbed waistband had a superheroic slant. The baggy trousers that are practically his signature piece could have stepped out of a film noir.

Sartori called his collection My Abstract Sunday, so that might be why the sky blue and sunshine yellow; the blurry, painterly checks; the swingy A-line peacoat, as voluminous as a smock, suggested an artist’s day of rest. But that was ultimately less interesting than Sartori’s fascination with the technicalities of his job, which was, after all, the thing that made him so compatible with Zegna in the first place. You could stare at his fabrics and still not be absolutely sure what you were looking at, so glazed and rubberized and dyed and «vitrified» (that’s a good one) were they. 

The construction was also artful, illuminated with little details that demanded a double take: the white top-stitching on a navy safari suit, the white shirt collar on a mac, the sky blue trim on one lapel of a gray jacket. Sartori now takes his point of view to Berluti, where he has a blank slate to build a business. But Z Zegna will linger as an inspiring memory.

DSQUARE2 SPRING 2012

Dean and Dan Caten are twenty-first-century vaudevillians, incapable of presenting a new collection without couching it in a saucy variety show. Today’s revolving stage coughed up some sexy Scandinavian fisherman, a buffet of Mykonos beefcake, a couple of lower-the-temperature Romanragazzi, a handful of droogy rockers, and Kazaky, four dizzy queens from the Ukraine whose post-Gaga get-outta-my-way-bitch shtick involved a gravity-defying dance routine performed in skintight leather pants and sky-high heels. Phew! Oh, there were some clothes shown, too.

DANNY BEAUCHAMP (D’MANAGEMENT)

HARRY GOODWINS (FASHION)

CLÉMENT CHABERNAUD (D’MANAGEMENT)

MALTHE LUD MADSEN (ELITE)

TOM LANDER

BO DEVELIUS

REID PREBENDA (FASHION)

JONATHAN AND KEVIN FERREIRA DE SAMPAIO

MIGUEL IGLESIAS (WHY NOT)

JONATHAN AND KEVIN FERREIRA DE SAMPAIO

ADRIEN SAHORES

DANNY BEAUCHAMP (D’MANAGEMENT)

VLADIMIR IVANOV (ELITE)

ROBERT RAE (FASHION)

RYAN KENNEDY (I LOVE)

ANDREA PRETI (ELITE)

CLÉMENT CHABERNAUD (D’MANAGEMENT)

HARRY GOODWINS (FASHION)

MALTHE LUD MADSEN (ELITE)

LEEBO FREMAN (I LOVE)

SACHA M’BAYE (WHY NOT)

RICHIE COTTERELL (FASHION)

ADRIEN SAHORES

And there’s the rub. At this stage in the Catens’ career, what they do shouldn’t be so overshadowed by how they do it. Later this month, they’re launching a purely sartorial «Classic Collection,» which will highlight the fact that they’re capable of great, straight(-ish) tailoring. Smart move, especially when the tailoring was positively refreshing amid today’s hymn to the depilated male body beautiful. Their outerwear, too, continues to be a winning blend of form and function.

There’s no doubt that the twins live the Dsquared² dream, which counts for integrity in its own OTT way. But while they’re hiding their light under a great big homoerotic bushel that lost its wow factor a while back, it’s hard not to feel they’re selling themselves a little short. Maybe that’s what the «Classic Collection» is about—a new kind of stature. God knows they’ve worked for it.

MIGUEL IGLESIAS (WHY NOT)

JOHN RICHMOND SPRING 2012

John Richmond may be little known in the U.S., but his brand of rock ‘n’ roll-inflected sportswear has a sizable presence in Europe. His aesthetic has taken on a lot more Milanese flash than it had in the eighties, when he was based in London and designed as part of a team with Maria Cornejo. Today, in a show he dubbed a «couture reggae party,» he used prints based on Japanese tattoos to liven up tees and knits, and he laser-cut intricate patterns into a black leather shirt and sand-colored jackets. The enjoyable soundtrack mash-up included a burst of Althea & Donna’s cult reggae classic «Uptown Top Ranking.» You can forgive a man a lot for that, though not, perhaps, the perforated fuchsia loafers.

GORDON BOTHE (I LOVE)

BRIAN DAVENPORT

JEREMY YOUNG (FASHION)

GUY ROBINSON (WHY NOT)

TARAS KOLTUN (FASHION)

MICHAEL GSTOTTNER

ANDREA PRETI (ELITE)

GORDON BOTHE (I LOVE)

BRIAN DAVENPORT

JEREMY YOUNG (FASHION)

GUY ROBINSON (WHY NOT)

TARAS KOLTUN (FASHION)

MICHAEL GSTOTTNER

ANDREA PRETI (ELITE)

GORDON BOTHE (I LOVE)

BRIAN DAVENPORT

JEREMY YOUNG (FASHION)

CANALI SPRING 2012

As an inspiration for a luxury suitmaker likeCanali, India serves a useful dual purpose: It addresses an important growing market and gives the design team a chance to play with color and pattern. Things started conventionally enough with a series of suits, one in a dusty rose tone-on-tone stripe, others in checks or seersucker. Traditional silk scarves peeked out from under lapels. Then the perspective shifted eastward. Those scarves exploded into ever more extravagant pattern, Nehru collars replaced notch lapels, and one model toted a canvas bag printed with an image of Ganesh. It culminated in a parade of orange and pink, turquoise and emerald green, as well as a tableau of embroidered and beaded alterna-tuxes. Everything was finished with the Canali precision and attention to detail, even if this kind of Western embrace of Eastern motifs already feels slightly rote by now.

MAX MOTTA (WHY NOT)

 

 

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS SPRING 2012

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS SPRING 2012