ESTE SITIO MUESTRA A LOS MEJORES MODELOS MASCULINOS DEL MUNDO

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LODEN DAGER SPRING 2012 MENSWEAR

JOHNNY GEORGE (DNA)

Though Loden Dager‘s inspirations ranged from sixties Brazilian architecture to Paul Klee—as Paul Marlow explained at his studio a few days before showtime—the thing that rang clearest through the show was suburbia (and SubUrbia). Marlow imagined all the young dudes hanging out in parking lots, loitering, and lounging. The key moment was when Ol’ Dirty Bastard’s «Shimmy Shimmy Ya» (a.k.a. «Ooh Baby, I Like it Raw»), one of the white-boy radio-rap jams of the nineties, first came blasting through the speakers.

COREY BAPTISTE (VNY)

As the guys started walking (running, really) with their Nike sneaks and pants with one leg rolled up, you could have been outside any 7-Eleven across this great nation 15 years back. That’s a very specific nostalgia to channel, but if it hits you, the way it hits you is, well, raw.

SIMON VAN MEERVENNE (VNY)

In reality, the kids back then never got as polished as this. There were cuffed tailored shorts in place of droopy saggers, and double-faced jacquards for flat prints. A hoodie sweater Marlow called a «wet-suit cardigan» zipped (and unzipped) all the way up the back, hem to hood. Mesh insets in shorts, jackets, and tanks kept it sporty (and allowed for the clever little mesh pocket squares).

NICOLAS RIPOLL (WHILHELMINA)

It all came in vivid, saturated colors like royal, orange, cranberry, and fuchsia, as well as a few cool paisleys and a motif of graphic stripes. It’s been a bright season in menswear, but Loden Dager—last season’s atypically black, white, and gray collection aside—always skews bright. Consider it a confirmation of their talent that Marlow and co-designer Oliver Helden still found a way to stand out from the crowd.

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DISEÑADORES, MODELOS, SPRING 2012

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PERRY ELLIS SPRING 2012 MENSWEAR

SEAN O’PRY (VNY) 

PERRY ELLIS SPRING 2012

Remember when the only men who wore capris were stylish Euros? Well, these days American guys are a lot more style-savvy. «I knew I was taking a risk with the capris,»Perry Ellis‘ creative director, John Crocco, said post-show. «But we had a few capri options for men in stores and they were selling really well, so I thought, Why not?» 

FRANCISCO LACHOWSKI (FORD)  

Cut cleanly in sand and white linen and ending a few inches below the knee, they were a nice companion to the salmon, mustardy ocher, and periwinkle jackets and knits. The colors were inspired by his recent travels to the Painted Desert in Arizona. «It’s about the traveler, the road trip meets safari,» Crocco explained.

SEAN HARJU (SOUL ARTIST)  

With plenty of linen, cotton, and an intriguing chintz-linen blend, plus roomy uncomplicated cuts, there was a pleasant, airy feel to the collection. Crocco added some approachable tailoring touches, such as suit trousers that hit at the ankle and a handsome white-on-white seersucker sport coat.

DAVID AGBODJI (REQUEST)  

When he did venture deeper into trends—a couple of color-blocked sweaters might look cheekily right on a svelte downtowner, but you could see the potential for disaster in the wrong hands—it was with a likable, gentle nudge most shoppers will likely respond to.

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DISEÑADORES, MODELOS, SPRING 2012

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DSQUARE2 SPRING 2012

Dean and Dan Caten are twenty-first-century vaudevillians, incapable of presenting a new collection without couching it in a saucy variety show. Today’s revolving stage coughed up some sexy Scandinavian fisherman, a buffet of Mykonos beefcake, a couple of lower-the-temperature Romanragazzi, a handful of droogy rockers, and Kazaky, four dizzy queens from the Ukraine whose post-Gaga get-outta-my-way-bitch shtick involved a gravity-defying dance routine performed in skintight leather pants and sky-high heels. Phew! Oh, there were some clothes shown, too.

And there’s the rub. At this stage in the Catens’ career, what they do shouldn’t be so overshadowed by how they do it. Later this month, they’re launching a purely sartorial «Classic Collection,» which will highlight the fact that they’re capable of great, straight(-ish) tailoring. Smart move, especially when the tailoring was positively refreshing amid today’s hymn to the depilated male body beautiful. Their outerwear, too, continues to be a winning blend of form and function.

There’s no doubt that the twins live the Dsquared² dream, which counts for integrity in its own OTT way. But while they’re hiding their light under a great big homoerotic bushel that lost its wow factor a while back, it’s hard not to feel they’re selling themselves a little short. Maybe that’s what the «Classic Collection» is about—a new kind of stature. God knows they’ve worked for it.

MIGUEL IGLESIAS (WHY NOT)

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DISEÑADORES, SPRING 2012

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