PAOLO ANCHISI EN GQ ESPAÑA JUNIO 2014
«ALOHA»
GQ ESPAÑA JUNIO 2014
FOTOS DE RICHARD RAMOS
ELLE MEN MÉXICO JUNIO 2014
JARROD SCOTT (FORD)
NUESTRA ULTIMA TENTACIÓN
FOTOS DE SANTIAGO RUISEÑOR
ESTE AUSTRALIANO ES UN GALÁN QUE PROVOCA LOS BAJOS PENSAMIENTOS
L’OFFICIEL HOMMES CHINA OCTOBER 2012
BY MICHELLE DU XUAN
DMITRIY TANNER
MIDE 6´2, CEBELLO CASTAÑO Y OJOS AZULES.
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ESTE GUAPÍSIMO MARINE RUSO ESTA ARRASANDO.
DESDE RUSIA CON AMOR….
SEAN O’PRY (VNY)
Remember when the only men who wore capris were stylish Euros? Well, these days American guys are a lot more style-savvy. «I knew I was taking a risk with the capris,»Perry Ellis‘ creative director, John Crocco, said post-show. «But we had a few capri options for men in stores and they were selling really well, so I thought, Why not?»
FRANCISCO LACHOWSKI (FORD)
Cut cleanly in sand and white linen and ending a few inches below the knee, they were a nice companion to the salmon, mustardy ocher, and periwinkle jackets and knits. The colors were inspired by his recent travels to the Painted Desert in Arizona. «It’s about the traveler, the road trip meets safari,» Crocco explained.
SEAN HARJU (SOUL ARTIST)
With plenty of linen, cotton, and an intriguing chintz-linen blend, plus roomy uncomplicated cuts, there was a pleasant, airy feel to the collection. Crocco added some approachable tailoring touches, such as suit trousers that hit at the ankle and a handsome white-on-white seersucker sport coat.
DAVID AGBODJI (REQUEST)
When he did venture deeper into trends—a couple of color-blocked sweaters might look cheekily right on a svelte downtowner, but you could see the potential for disaster in the wrong hands—it was with a likable, gentle nudge most shoppers will likely respond to.
Hawaii, not Manhattan, is officially the island of New York fashion week. All right, perhaps not officially, but it’s above and beyond the preferred destination this collection season. Add Michael Bastian to the luau-loving bunch, even though he has never actually visited the state. «What I know of Hawaii is from watching the Brady Bunch shows from the seventies,» the designer said at his Gantpresentation. «But sometimes your idea of something can be even better than the real thing.» Bastian’s dream combination of Hawaiian fever and seventies love translated into a hippie-dippie version of all-American classics.
Even the models were cast with Marcia and Greg in mind. «This collection is about being happy and fun,» Bastian said, grinning ear to ear. «It’s about what you can throw into your bag for a summer weekend and just go.»
For women, there were sweet sundress renditions. One saccharine frock had embroidered watermelons, smocking on the bodice, and straps that tied into floppy bows. Another floral-printed version was more attractive, if not for its roomy tunic fit, then for its nickname: the «Drunk Mommy dress,» Bastian called it. But it wasn’t only girly girls who were catered to. Tomboys also had options, in a rainbow-striped vest and cargo pants.
Predictably, the men’s designs were stronger. Denim, in candy colors, was nicely tapered and rolled just above the ankle. Camo, amped up in red, was layered in with the requisite Hawaiian flower and tiki motifs. Bastian also showed a knack for tweaking rugby shirts with agreeable details such as an exaggerated contrast placket, or lacing instead of buttons. Swimwear, though, was where things really got fun. A pair of pink swim trunks with a hippo print was merry enough for both Maui and East Hampton. Meanwhile, one beefy male model seemed to be wearing nothing but a mint green Gant logo cotton tank top (if you looked closely, you could see tiny swim briefs underneath). If anything, it brought plenty of smiles all around.
TRAVIS CANNATA (FORD)
Jeremy Scott’s invitation was a beach-and-palms picture postcard—»Greetings From Paradise!»—and on the back, in Scott’s scrawl, «Wish you were here.» It was tempting to think that, in the current moment of Hawaiiana, which has found an unlikely following among a number of designers, Scott was going to go all-out and put on a luau the likes of which this trend has never seen.
SEBASTIAN SAUVÉ (SOUL ARTIST)
Over the top of over-the-top is his calling card, after all. But you can expect this designer to shy away from the expected. What Scott turned out instead was a freckled fantasy of life back on the farm, refracted through Hollywood lenses. Elly May Clampett of The Beverly Hillbillies was the collection’s guiding light, though you could see Miss Daisy Duke in the mix, too. Country-boy bandannas were done up in metal mesh and turned into handkerchief minidresses. Bib overalls were cut and pasted into skirts and halter tops. There were cow prints for country cute, but also cactus motifs out of Santa Fe. Why? Don’t ask. Scott sent out a dress dangling giant question marks. There’s the only answer you’ll get.
RIVER VIIPERI (SOUL ARTIST)
Few designers can claim to have followed the Clampett example, but as Scott pointed out backstage, he grew up on a farm outside of Kansas City, Missouri, and eventually hightailed it, Beverly Hillbillies-style, to Hollywood.
The show was a return of sorts, and, as the designer said with a laugh backstage, «there’s no place like home.» The personal connection might have lent an intimacy to the proceedings, but actually this offering felt a little more remote than some of a recent vintage, like the remember-those-days gods-and-party-monsters collection from Fall 2011. The saving grace turned out to be the shoes, in particular, needle-nosed creepers for the guys—a preview of Scott’s Adidas collaboration to come.