Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren spoke of a “new age” mood for the Spring collection they showed today, but the new age was an old age—the seventies, the movement’s original heyday. Flapping, oversize peak lapels; flared trousers; and patchwork denims all signaled the Me Decade, one that was interpreted, you felt 40 years later, a little literally. V & R are rarely without their sartorial curveball, and today it came in mammalian form: a dolphin, who appeared knit into sweaters, printed on suit linings, and in one memorable, large-collared top, flapping quite literally off of shirting fabric, with little dorsal fins jagging straight off of the garment. The Dutch duo refer to their target man as a “sexy intellect,” so no wonder they picked the intellectual of the ocean as their totem. They were steadiest on their sea legs when Flipper brought with him some of his native water-blue tones, in contrast to the bone-and-flesh color scheme dominating the collection.


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